Tajinder HayerIf London Collections: Men is all about superb tailoring and emerging designers, whilst the focus of Paris is that chic, nonchalant vibe, then Milan has to be the fashion city where glamour is the order of the day. At no show is that more the case, than Versace.
The Autumn/Winter 2015 Versace man is more subdued than he currently is this summer, for which he can be seen sporting a hot pink suit worn shirtless. The more subdued man for the season can be seen in one of the highlights of the latest collection – a new Versace jacket with a neat constructed shoulder and a sharp shorter style.
The metal detailing that can be seen on the gold tabs that fasten the jackets and gold buttons that fasten the half belts on the coat add some of that Versace bling.
The sport influences continue to be a strong influence. Here a sporty energy came in the form of hooded tops, knit leggings and trousers so tight that they were almost like a second skin.
The addition of fur made the sports pieces street appropriate, appearing as lining on hoods and trims on long coats. These coats were some of the strongest pieces in the collection, especially the graphic black and white blanket styles and the long, lean double breasted variation.
It was refreshing to see a change of tone from previous Versace shows. Whilst the bling was still ever present, there were also new silhouettes. The fitted blouson jackets looked great when matched with oversized trousers, and the tone on tone dressing adds a really elegant touch to a classic shirt and blazer combination.
Speaking of the new collection, designer Donatella Versace said, “The collection is Versace stripped or Versace soul. Stripped because I took all the decorations off. You are going to find the pure Versace soul that stands on its own for all its shapes, cuts, silhouettes, sharpness and sensuality.”