Sandeep PurewalWe were given our first look at Turnbull & Asser’s AW15 collection at the British Fashion Council’s London Collections: Men. The brand are known for their distinct British elegance, and have taken this even further in their latest collection.
Rather unusually, the collection has been inspired by iconic films: think Dandy in Aspic, Ipcress File, and Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy. The thrill of espionage is what links these films with the collection: the message is that life should be exciting, and one’s clothing choices should accompany this.
As with their other ranges, the collection comes in ‘The Formalist’ and ‘The Informalist’. However, there is also the introduction of eveningwear for 2015, known as ‘The Nocturnalist’.
The Formalist shirting remains quintessentially English: the simple, fresh colour palette is used to disguise the complexity of the weaving. Familiar silhouettes have been updated, achieving a classic but modern look.
Furthermore, bold, daring colours have been put through a foggy London filter to achieve an authentic Cold-War period feel for wardrobe staples such as coats and tailoring.
Taking inspiration from Turnbull & Asser’s vast archive, intricate tie weaving reflects the combination between the classic and the contemporary. While depicting the imperfect, authentic patterns of the period, the modern micro neat designs also portray the 21st century’s obsession with detail.
The Informalist collection demonstrates the making of beautiful, textured layers, and exhibits the importance of both style and comfort. The range of shirts and pyjamas include a new line of cotton and cashmere blended yarns, ensuring luxury on every level.
Tweeds and wool corduroys give blazers a new lease of life, while bi-colour yarns transform the cable sweaters into stylish but comfortable outerwear.
Colour is a leading factor in this range: the bold hues are softened with muted melange tones and brushed for warmth. As a result, the shirts look modern and unique, setting the wearer apart from the crowd.
The Nocturnalist is less discreet: in a nod to the often flamboyant master criminals, Turnbull & Asser introduces an eccentric array of exquisite woven silk, single-breasted smoking jackets. A seductively smoky palette of Black, Midnight and Deep Burgundy ensure a striking contrast against the classic plain white shirt.
All pieces are limited edition, adding to the air of exclusivity in the collection. Furthermore, an intriguing selection of luxury woven silk gowns perfectly completes the range.
If you can’t wait until autumn, take a look at the brand’s other collections at http://www.turnbullandasser.co.uk/. Turnball & Asser’s AW15 collection emphasises the fact that, spy or not, you have to look the part.