Acclaimed fashion stylist Oriona Robb is redefining modern menswear, offering unparalleled insights into suiting and timeless dressing. Recently, Oriona took a deep dive into the world of bespoke tailoring with a visit to Savile Row’s renowned Fedro Gaudenzi – a name synonymous with exceptional craftsmanship. With suits starting at £6,000, Gaudenzi represents the pinnacle of sartorial excellence, a level of artistry that few tailors achieve.
The Journey to a Perfect Suit
“A great suit isn’t just about looking good – it’s about feeling confident,comfortable, and effortlessly put together,” says Oriona. “True elegance comes from a suit that is tailored to the wearer’s body and lifestyle.”
At Gaudenzi’s atelier, Oriona observed firsthand the intricate process behind bespoke tailoring, where a suit is built from scratch using a pattern created specifically for the individual. This differs significantly from made-to-measure, which modifies a pre-existing pattern but doesn’t offer the same level of customisation or handcraftsmanship.
With a keen eye for detail and a passion for craftsmanship, Oriona shares her top tips for mastering the art of dressing well particularly when it comes to suits:
1. Invest in the Right Suiting Option
Oriona emphasizes the importance of understanding the three levels of tailoring: bespoke, made-to-measure, and ready-to-wear. “A bespoke suit is the pinnacle of craftsmanship, created entirely from scratch for the individual,” she explains. “Made-to-measure offers a semi-custom experience with a modified pattern, while ready-to-wear provides an accessible starting point, often requiring expert tailoring for a perfect fit.”
2. Prioritise Fabric Quality
The fabric makes all the difference. “I always recommend high-quality wool for its versatility, cashmere blends for added luxury, and silk-linen mixes for their refined texture and breathability,” she advises. “The right fabric not only impacts comfort but also the drape and longevity of a suit.”
3. Perfect Fit is Non-Negotiable
“A suit should complement the wearer’s proportions, not fight against them,” Oriona states. She highlights the importance of adjusting lapel width, button placement, and trouser cut to suit individual body types. “A shorter man benefits from higher button placement to elongate the torso, while broader shoulders need careful structuring to avoid an exaggerated look.”
4. Master the Art of Subtlety
When it comes to timeless style, Oriona believes in understated elegance. “Avoid overly trendy details like extreme lapel widths or cropped jackets, as they date quickly. Classic proportions and subtle refinements will always stand the test of time.”
5. Don’t Overlook Traditional Craftsmanship
Oriona champions heritage tailoring techniques, including hand-sewn floating canvas construction, hand-stitched lapels, and Milanese buttonholes. “These artisanal touches ensure a suit molds to the wearer over time, creating an unmatched level of refinement,” she notes.
6. Embrace Soft Tailoring and Relaxed Silhouettes
For a modern yet enduring approach, Oriona highlights the return of soft tailoring. “Natural shoulders and lightweight construction provide effortless sophistication,” she says. “Double-breasted suits are also making a strong comeback, but in a more relaxed cut that keeps them versatile.”
7. Build a Wardrobe Around Essentials
For those investing in their first bespoke suit, she advises starting with a navy or charcoal option in a premium wool fabric. “Fit and craftsmanship should always come before fleeting trends. A well-made suit is a long-term investment.”
8. Avoid Common Suiting Mistakes
“The most frequent misstep I see is an ill-fitting suit, whether too tight or too loose, it immediately diminishes its elegance,” Oriona warns. “Ignoring fabric quality, opting for overly trendy details, or neglecting tailoring adjustments can all undermine the overall look.”
Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure vs. Tailored Ready-to-Wear
Oriona breaks down the key differences between these three suiting options:
• Bespoke: The highest level of craftsmanship, with a unique pattern created for the client, multiple fittings, and meticulous hand-finishing. The result is a one-of-a-kind suit that molds to the body over time.
• Made-to-Measure: A middle ground between bespoke and ready-to-wear, where a pre-existing pattern is adjusted to the client’s measurements. While it offers a good fit and some customization, it lacks the personalisation of a bespoke suit.
• Tailored Ready-to-Wear: Off-the-rack suits that are then altered for a better fit. This is the most accessible option but doesn’t compare to the level of refinement found in made-to-measure or bespoke tailoring.
With her expert eye and dedication to quality, Oriona Robb continues to shape the way men dress, blending classic tailoring with contemporary style.