July 27, 2015
Berthold AW15 At LCM
Fashion brand Berthold held their AW15 presentation at the British Fashion Council’s London Collections: Men. The collection was inspired by a wide range of sources, and is designed for those who want to stand out from the crowd.
For this reason, it is not surprising that designer Raimund Berthold was inspired by the work of conceptual Mexican artist Abraham Cruzvillegas, and in particular, his ongoing autoconstrucción project. Cruzvillegas collects and assembles everyday items made from paper such as envelopes, receipts and bags and then paints them in a single colour. Then, he places them onto walls to make large, abstract mosaics.
According to the brand, “this act of collecting and collating mirrors Raimund’s own working method. He begins each season with a visual excursion through artists’ books and collections.” For Berthold’s AW15 collection, he has gathered hundreds of images of garment details, which have inspired him to create a unique, abstract collection with a focus on precise details.
Austrian-born Raimund Berthold, now based in London, is known for his effective sense of colour and his silhouettes, which are often free from defined shapes.
The contrast between nylon, neoprene and synthetic fabrics against natural wool and cotton is definitive of the brand’s aims. As Berthold said, they produce “bold clothes for men led by inventive design and fit – not by fashion.”
A storm cuff has been reversed on the sleeves of jackets and coats, inspired by the hem of elasticated, industrial gloves. The box pockets applied to the front of outerwear has been adapted from vintage uniforms and is reworked with a slate-grey felt tab. The silhouette and volume have been developed from army desert overcoats.
The collection’s knitwear selection marks the label’s second collaboration with Royal Warrant holders Corgi. A strong and buoyant Polypropylene Italian yarn is contrasted with Geelong wool, which is known for its softness.
Traditional menswear cloth such as cotton and nylon appears alongside more refined textiles: doeskin from Hainsworth, a wool felt which is made from 100% tightly milled Merino wool.
To look at Berthold’s current collections and find out more about the brand, go to http://berthold-uk.com/ or follow them on twitter @berthold_uk. If there’s one thing that Berthold’s presentation at London Collections: Men has taught us, it is that your clothes shouldn’t define you. You define your clothes.